Patchworks of lace are definitely “in” with decorators and collectors. Prices for tablecloths, bedspreads, and other large items can not only reach five hundred dollars, but often are well into the thousands. Even a thousand dollar price tag can a bargain, however.

  No where is there a greater storehouse of human imagination, endeavor, patience, and sheer hours of work than a patchwork of antique lace. It is not unheard of to find handmade 19th century lace that would sell for over a hundred dollars a yard used in a patchwork. Each patchwork could easily take a hundred yards of lace to make.

   Unlike calico patchworks, typically made up of machine-made cloth in one of dozens of named patterns like drunkard’s path, wild goose, or grandma’s garden, each lace patchwork is unique. Lace has texture as well as pattern, and the design must take that into account. Each piece of lace also has a special shape. Straight edgings must be coaxed smoothly into curves to fit with round doilies or with scalloped edgings.

    Normandy work is one name sometimes given to these amazing patchworks, possibly because  many of these patchworks include plate-sized rounds of fine white fabric with white embroidery, drawnwork, cutwork, and lacy inserts that look much like the round backs of caps used in one region of Normandy.

Design

    Look for symmetry, and some theme or design element that unites the different textures and designs of the lace fragments and yardage that make it up. The texture and pattern of each individual piece of lace should have been considered, and used to enhance the overall design.

Workmanship

  Because the edges of lace pieces are so irregular, with many open areas, Normandy work almost always was assembled by hand. Look closely to see how neatly and securely individual pieces have been joined.

Condition

    Look carefully at each individual piece in the patchwork.  Some lace may have been new when it was included in the patchwork, other pieces may have been over a hundred years old. Some of the lace may be deteriorating and rotting, and tear at the slightest touch.

   If you do find a dry-rotted patch of lace in the patchwork, check all other parts of a design to find other patches of the same lace. Expect the same lace to be in the same condition wherever it appears in the patchwork.

   Look carefully at both the front and the back of the patchwork. If you find a lining of net or tulle supporting the back of some sections, expect that the lace has rotted in those areas.
Rarity

    Small uninspired doilies assembled from assorted machine-made laces are very common, and should not bring high prices. The most rare are well designed pieces that incorporate marvelous pieces of handmade seventeenth and eighteenth century lace. To find these in perfect condition is indeed rare.

About the author: Elizabeth Kurella has pursued the study of antique lace and developed her own course of study through extensive research of the lace collections of museums throughout the U.S. and abroad. “Guide to Lace and Linens” (ISBN: 0-930625-89-7 * Retail $24.95 * 224 pages 8.5 x 11" SC), can be found in your local book- store or ordered through Antique Trader Books by calling toll-free 1.800.334.7165. Trade bookstores please contact Publishers Group West at 1.800.788.3123. Her latest book, “The Complete Guide to Vintage Textiles”, (ISBN: 0-87341-676-7 * Retail $19.95 * 256 pages 8.5 x 11"), can also be found in your local bookstore or ordered through Krause Publications by calling toll-free 1.888.457.2873. ext. 880.